Updated: Feb 5
There’s no denying that the granny square is a traditional crochet technique, and I wanted to make a classic, beginner friendly pattern with uncomplicated assembly for a holiday project, so when I thought about old timey Christmas, a granny square stocking seemed like the perfect solution! A bit bigger than I envisioned, but still not completely unreasonable, it is made of 27 three-round grannies that are simply whip stitched together. The cuff is made with post stitches and a crocheted in hanging loop for extra stability, both of which can easily be made as wide or long as you'd like!
The pattern includes a joining schematic as well as pictures illustrating my whip stitch method, which isn't anything fancy, so don't worry! This is a pretty simple project; it just takes a bit of time - but then, so would a cabled stocking! I wanted this to be easy but with just a bit of a challenge in the finishing touches to stretch your skills. I do hope you enjoy it and Merry Christmas!!
Each granny square motif should measure approximately 3" across using suggested materials, but a different sized square will simply result in different sized stocking, so feel free to go with whatever you get! That said, this one measures approximately 6" wide and 20" tall. I'd actually like to remake this using Cascade 220 Sport instead, because I think it would make it just enough smaller to be perfect, but that's just me. :)
Cascade 220 by Cascade Yarns in 3 colors (100g, 220 yds each) Worsted (4) Weight: C1 2409 Palm Green, C2 8010 Natural, C3 9488 Christmas Red Heather
H/5.0mm Crochet Hook
One 1” Jingle Bell (optional)
Foundation sc: insert hook into bottom of previous stitch. Pull up a loop and chain 1 (this creates the base or foundation of your new stitch). Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.
Stacked sc: single crochet in 1st stitch. Insert hook between two front legs of sc just completed, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook. Counts as one double crochet.
Standing dc: start with a slip knot on your hook and wrap yarn once around hook (hold in place). Insert hook in designated stitch, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, twice.
With C1 (green), ch 5 and join with a sl st to make a ring.
Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc) and working into ring, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3 and finish off. (4 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch 2 sps)
Rnd 2: with C2 (white), work standing dc in any ch 2 corner sp. (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner sp. *Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch 2 corner sp. Repeat from * two more times. Ch 1, dc in 1st ch 2 corner sp, join with sl st or invisible join and finish off. (8 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch 2 sps, 4 ch 1 sps)
Rnd 3: with C3 (red), work standing dc in any ch 2 corner sp. (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch 2 corner sp. Repeat from * two more times. Ch 1, dc in 1st ch 2 corner sp, join with sl st or invisible join and leave long tail for sewing squares together if desired. (12 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch 2 sps, 8 ch 1 sps).
Make 27 squares and block for neater and easier joining.
All right, here’s where things get interesting! Now, personally, I kind of hate sewing in ends. So I left a nice lengthy tail on each square to use for joining. If the thought of juggling all those ends is making you twitchy, though, feel free to sew them in and start fresh when you’re ready to join! IF you’re stubborn like me, though, here’s how I went about sewing all the little buggers together.
First, I separated them into two batches: 16 squares for the front and 11 squares for the back (no, neither side is technically one or the other; that’s just how I thought of them). By joining them in two separate pieces, it helped keep me from putting them in the wrong place as I tried to visualize folding it all together into one whole piece rather than simply making a front and a back.
So. With the tails in the upper right hand corner of each square, I began joining at the top of the stocking with a whip stitch, working from top right to bottom right corner, joining to the left side of the next square, and then working from bottom right to bottom left corner, joining to the top side of another square.
Here are photos joining to the left side of the second square:
And joining the first square to the top of the third square:
Then we join the fourth square in the same way as we joined the second one:
Each square was added in the same manner until I had two pieces as pictured below. I did NOT weave in these ends just yet, though, except where four corners met, so that I could more neatly join them when they came together.
Then I joined the two pieces together in the same manner, working down the “back” of the stocking. Like so:
Once both pieces are joined, you can continue seaming squares together as makes sense to you, making sure to fold the proper squares in half diagonally as indicated in the images by the red dotted lines. Now. A word of advice. You might want to start at the bottom of the stocking to do this part instead of the top, like I did, because you considerably limit your space to work in once it’s no longer flat! Make sure to pull all your corners together as you weave in ends and, if you like, add a little jingle bell to the tip of the toe.
Row 1: With wrong side facing and C2, join with standing dc in seam at back of stocking. Dc in ea dc, ch, or seam around for a total of 56 dc. Join with sl st to top of standing dc.
Rows 2 – 3: stacked sc in same st as join (counts as 1st dc here and throughout), dc in ea dc around. (56 dc)
Note: if you want a wider cuff, add a few more rows here. As written, cuff should be about half the width of one granny square motif.
Row 4: sc in same st as join, 20 fsc to create hanging loop, sc in same st as join again. Dc in ea st around and join with sl st to top of 1st sc. (55 dc plus hanging loop)
Row 5: ch 2, fold hanging loop toward you (into the stocking) and bpdc tightly around loop, (fpdc around next dc, bpdc around next dc) around to last st. Fpdc around last dc and join with sl st to top of 1st bpdc.
Row 6: ch 2, bpdc around same st as join AND ch 2, (fpdc around next, bpdc around next) around to last st. Fpdc around last fpdc and join with sl st to top of 1st bpdc.
Repeat row 6 three more times or until desired cuff width is reached. Finish off and weave in ends. Block again if desired.
I hope you enjoyed this project and I’d love to see your creations, too, so if you feel like sharing, pop on over to my Facebook page or tag me @crochetcetera on Instagram or Twitter and show me what you come up with!
*This pattern has not been tested for accuracy.
This pattern will always remain free here on my website and for your convenience, you may also download a pdf for this pattern through Ravelry. Enjoy!
© 2017 Crochet Cetera by Connie Lee
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